Drywall Screw
What’s the best type of screw to use for mx bike studs for ice if I’m too cheap to buy real studs?
I want to put some drywall screws in my tires for studs cause I don’t want to spend the money on real studs for my bike so I can ride on the ice and snow. I want to know what length and is there a best kind of screw for this application possibly? any input is much appreciated!!thanks!!
Use Hex Head Sheet Metal Screws.
#8 is a common choice,,,
6′s tend to break more,,,,
10′s size tend to interfere with pattern/positioning
Plain ol’ “hardware store brand” are cheap.
They work ok for most folks,casual use.
The Con’s are ;
* they’re usually Chinese or some other import,,,and break more often.
* the heads are Short
*the head’s edges are somewhat rounded-over by the mfg’ing process used.
“Premium” brands,,,are the opposite of the above,,,,,
*Stronger,,,Taller heads,,,Sharp/Sharp Edges
Maybe a moot point???
Here’s some pics to compare the differences
Common Hardware store “brands”,,
Look closely at corners/edges,etc,,depth of slot
http://www.american-appliance.com/images/image_data/MVC-193X.JPG
“Good Ones”
http://www.motorhelmets.com/pics-general/tubes-gold-ice-screws.jpg
http://cgi.ebay.com/ORIGINAL-GOLD-ICE-SCREWS-1-2-ICE-RACING_W0QQitemZ150204330918QQihZ005QQcategoryZ137085QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
………………….
Here’s a couple pics showing some install “patterns”…..really it’s a “free form art”.
No Right/Ideal/Perfect,,,but also hard to go plain Wrong
One Thing,,,is to favour the Leading Edge of the tread block.
No further back than approx Mid-way on each block.
Distortion under load will fold the stud back and it will be obscured from contact.
If your tire has a “V” pattern,,,,use the Open end of the V as Leading edge
http://www.iceholes.com/images/2003/frparty/pfr02.jpg
http://www.iceholes.com/images/2002/sparky/nb281.jpg
…………………….
If Possible,,push rear axle as far forward as much as you can.
You’ll be limited by chain adjustment,most probably.
1/2″ is not really worth fooling with,,,,,
but if your axle is all the way back and you can shorten wheelbase 1″~1 1/2” it does help.
Soften Rear suspension as much as possible w/ any adjustment you have.
On Front,,,
It helps to soften it/add sag.
*Drop air psi if thats an option,
*Or,,remove or shorten any preload spacers
*Try 5w Fork Oil
The idea is rapid weigt transfer transition,,,,almost a FLOP from Front/Rear and vice versa.
***NOT GOOD for normal riding–it’ll be a pogo stick.
Potentially even Dangerous at Higher Speed&Normal surfaces.
But works OK on No/Low Traction surfaces
…………………………………….
Installing the Screws—
Get Comfortable,,
Use a variable speed drill,,,and a magnetic socket.
Dont try to “Tighten them” ,,just bottom them out.
Plain Water and Rubbing Alcohol mix makes a decent “Lube” for the screws.
Dont use soapy water,or anything Silicon or Oil.
LENGTH of Screws is gonna depend upon Your Tire.
Select a length Short enough to avoid reaching Tire Carcass.
Just “Block-Length” is good.
Invariably the Block Height seems to be Between 2 Screw Length sizes….Better to use Screws “too Short” than Too Long.
Tire PSI–set it to yield only a Slight amount of squat.
“2psi too LOW is worse than 5psi Too HI”
Especially on Wide Spaced Tread Blocks.
Too Low allows too much distortion and will lift the studs off the surface when under load.
It’s really a matter of Trial and Error,,,change it a Couple PSI at a time .
You’ll feel it lose bite under acceleration when it gets Too soft,,,just add a few psi back at that point..
All just some suggestions,,,,,everyone seems to have their own ideas and experiences of what works best for them.
One final thought,,,Most BikeShops are happy to give away “Old Tires”.
Ya might see if You can find a pair,,,,and prep them for ice/snow use.
You can keep them for seasonal use,,,just swap em with your normal tires when so desired.
Have Fun
…………………….
Drywall Screws work OK,,,
thing is if Installed from Outside,,,Head UP,,,they’re usually too long & will punture tire.
Cutting them to lenght is TUFF & tedious,,,cuz they need to be Installed>Removed>Cut>Re-Installed.
They Need the Starter Hole .
Screw them in till countersink is barely into tread,,leaving them sticking out a little.
If installing them from Inside,,,to yield an actual SPIKE tread,,
Screw them in TIGHT/”flush”,,,,and dont let the spike protrude more than about 1/4~3/8″ or so
Use Large diameter ones,,or they’ll break off easily.
…………………………..
Screw POINT type,,,
There’s Sharp-Pointed Self-STARTING—–looks like a wood screw sorta.
And Self-TAPPING,,,meant to cut it’s way thru sheet metal
Use the Self STARING,pointed ones in Rubber..
They are much easier,,,and end up tighter.
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HARDWARE / DRYWALL SCREW FINE & COARSE THREAD For WOOD & PLASTER BOARD 20MM~90MM $4.27 |
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HARDWARE / DRYWALL SCREW FINE & COARSE THREAD For WOOD & PLASTER BOARD 20MM~90MM $4.27 |
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